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Twinset build

Discussion in 'Dive Equipment' started by Mako-JD, Sep 26, 2017.

  1. jb2cool

    jb2cool Moderator
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    The manifold sets the cylinder gap. Screw it in enough to set the gap to correctly fit the bands there will likely still be some thread showing.

    As for nipping up the manifold, some people do, some people don't.
     
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  2. Mako-JD

    Mako-JD Active Member

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    That's the answer I needed JB thx.
    When I put manifold threads all way in there us not a chance in hell of getting bands on without damaging something. When bands are on manifold should still move freely until I nip collars up
     
  3. Mako-JD

    Mako-JD Active Member

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    All assembled and filled, ready to dive over Chrimbo :)

    Merry Xmas everyone stay safe :)
     
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  4. Wibble

    Wibble Fish don't talk
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    Where are you diving?
     
  5. Mako-JD

    Mako-JD Active Member

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    Capers in the morning to De-Virginalise my twins(if that is even a word)

    just going in without adjusting anything. took BP/harness straight off single, and have set twinning bands just below the break

    using this standard setup on regs http://www.frogkickdiving.com/doubles-regulators.html

    hopeful i can reach valves in the water, i can touch top of my BP with both hands so should be in the right place.

    we will see in the morning :)
     
  6. JohnL

    JohnL Well-Known Member

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    Good luck - in terms of what you are going to do, the politest I can think of is to pop their cherries :joyful:
     
  7. Mako-JD

    Mako-JD Active Member

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    OK update, back from capers did 45min@4c found myself to be head heavy so need balance tail. @7m with 120Bar on the gauge so i guess i double that 240 ish bar , i could not hold @7m so planning on 3-4kg extra weight fro now until i happy then see how i go. 2Kg on tail ans 2kg on waist

    not out now until mid january

    any comments or advise always welcome

    Happy News Years all in advance :))

    I could find my valves but that was about all, did not even attempt any shutdowns, had my buddy hanging on my shoulder in case of problems.
     
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  8. Wibble

    Wibble Fish don't talk
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    It's best to be shown how to do shutdowns and drills properly. It's not hard but does need some practice, so being shown one way and practising only that way will be better in the long run (there's differences between agencies for the drills, mainly related to 'isolate first' or not.

    However, you could do a "flow check" where you turn each valve half a turn one way and half a turn back to prove that it's open. This way you develop the muscle memory for reaching and turning the valves, and learning which way is open. Be careful though!

    The main challenge / danger with valve drills is turning both valves off. We all do this at some time or other and this is why you need a buddy who's ready to donate

    You can practice out of he water. You'll need to have your tins resting on a high bench so you can reach the valves -- in the water the tins float forwards making it easier to reach back to the valves.

    Everything gets easier with practice.
     
  9. Tribal Chestnut

    Tribal Chestnut Well-Known Member
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    And shutdowns are much much easier in warmer water, for me anyway.

    Muscles are looser, less undies, thinner gloves.
     
  10. timmyg

    timmyg Super Moderator
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    It's interesting you say head heavy. It could equally be floaty feet. That is what I have with my drysuit boots. I don't need a 2kg tail weight to get down but I do need it for trim. And this is me as an instructor, and for those that would say it, even my fundies instructor agreed with me.

    In terms of shutdowns, there's a number of factors & trim is one of them. Head position, harness sizing, drysuit & undersuit cut, approach direction with the arm. As Wibs said, its best to be shown properly first. You'll find it much harder to correct mistakes later on.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  11. Mako-JD

    Mako-JD Active Member

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    Hi Tim, on my single 12l feet are no problem at all. Use RK3s and i trim very good. soon i i got with twins and just relaxed, i went head down straight away.
    was correcting myself all the time with finning to stay somewhat in trim. def to light imo as when tins half way down i could not hold bouyancy. went vertical dropped as gas from wing and suit and still had to hold rope to complete stop

    Do you get up north to capers anytime Tim to run courses (capers)
     
  12. timmyg

    timmyg Super Moderator
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    I have the same issues with my single setup. My twins just require the 2KG tail to stay horizontal once they get below 120 bar.

    I have run courses at Capers. It depends on the course & location of the students. Always happy to help.


    TG

    Sent from my iPhone using timmytalk
     
  13. Mako-JD

    Mako-JD Active Member

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    Ok will try a 2KG on tail next time i out and just see how it works. My tins are now half full so next time out i will breath them down and get buddy to hand weight until weighting correct (ish)
     
  14. Vanny

    Vanny Active Member

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    Unless you’ve the HD version of the rk’s they are a light weight fin compared to scuba pro jets. I guess with the additional weight high up your tipping head down. I’d suggest run your twins down to 50 bar and go in purely for a weight check. Remember you’ll need 2-3kg extra for salt assuming your doing this in fresh. Establish the weight required , get a fill and have a simple dive just thinking about trim. Be nice to borrow some different lead e.g tail weight , v weight etc buying new fins would be an expensive solution. It’s where you position

    Are you using a belt ?

    It’s where you position the weight that’ll help.
     
  15. Mako-JD

    Mako-JD Active Member

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    Did not use any weight at all. this was purposeful as wanted to see where i was in water before adding or subtracting anything
    With a 12L faber i use 4.5kg soft weight in pouched belt and 3kg P-Weight and that is perfect.

    Gonna do as Tim suggested and lump 2Kg on tail. Then plan to breath down and +- as required.
    Wing position is set to the highest stud hole to give the most clearance to valves. so wing is as far down on my back as it will go........Hmmmm now as i type this i think this should change this the other way around giving more lift to torso head...

    thx Vanny
     
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  16. timmyg

    timmyg Super Moderator
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    I use 3kg integrated into my halcyon STA, +2KG on a belt for fresh. I have a separate 4KG belt for salt.

    I can’t remember (and am too lazy to look whilst on the phone), are you on Apeks, Euro or Faber twins?

    Also, check your harness sizing. Too tight and your cylinders will be in the wrong position to reach you valves, and also restrict movement. Too loose, and they will move. This means you cannot reach your valves & also may be too far forward therefore throwing your positioning off.


    TG

    Sent from my iPhone using timmytalk
     
  17. Mako-JD

    Mako-JD Active Member

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    12L round bottom Apeks cylinders, 13.5kg and 13.6kg
     
  18. Wibble

    Wibble Fish don't talk
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    Tail weight here too. For fresh water I have 1kg tail weight and 1kg between the bolts. Fine for winter plumage where I prefer to have more gas in my suit for warmth. Also use the heavier Hollis F1 fins which keeps the feet down.

    Just checking; the bands are high on the tins and you use the middle bolt of your backplate (assuming it's got three bolt holes for the top bolt).
     
  19. Mako-JD

    Mako-JD Active Member

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    Just two bolt holes to choose from and yes bands just below break

    not out now for a couple of weeks. catch up work after xmas
     
  20. jb2cool

    jb2cool Moderator
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    When you say just below the break, what do you mean? Right on it? An inch below?
     

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