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Discussion in 'Dive Equipment' started by Harvey-NG, Sep 7, 2018.
Any fix to this, other than buying another brand?
Wash your kit after being in salt water and then dry it afterwards.
I rarely wash mine and I don't have problems. Maybe yet, but thus far it all seems OK.
I've no problems recommending LFM and Ammonite - I'd buy exactly the same again.
To be fair, mine spends far too long in the back of my van between dives. It hasn't caused me enough problems to wish that I had paid £500 more for another brand though.
I’m very pleased with my LFM NW7. However it seems I’m not alone. My 11ah battery canister is being attacked by corrosion. I think it’s where it’s come into contact with the stainless frame of my CCR
Is there anything I can do to slow it down ? Clean up and hammerite paint ??
Isolate it with a 'sock' to stop the differing metals touching? Could be a bit of plastic, electrician's tape, etc.
If its caused by the differing metals, then painting might make it worse unless you do a really good job of it. If you leave a small area unprotected, or chip it, then you'll have the same current flow between the two but it'll be acting over the smaller anodic area. You'd be better covering any of the stainless that it might contact with.
My CCR frame has gaffa tape between the ali and stainless bits. Might be a bodge but it seems to work
Or, taking a boating approach, add a zinc anode!
Cathodic protection for torches. We need a kickstarter project!
Sometimes the obvious and simple answer is the best answer!
I've used Agir and Light Monkey, and even Halcyon, with no trace of corrosion.